Story by Mark Varenhorst, MCP Contributing Writer
Photos by Rob Alway, Editor-in-Chief
LAKE MICHIGAN — Ludington is a maritime town. It has been since its early days of lumber. From the mid-19th century there have been ships that have worked this port village which became a city in 1873. Those break-bulk ships evolved into the train ferries that operated out of Ludington for most all of the 20th century. Indeed, the 1920s to 1960s were packed full of stories of the carferries that operated out of Ludington. Many a day I spent at the harbor (skipping school most likely) sitting near No. 1 Slip watching the ferries come and go; No. 1 Slip was located near the present southwest corner of Waterfront Park where it borders the Ludington Municipal Marina). If you sat long enough (and I did) you would see several during the day. Usually, the older boats like the Pere Marquette 21 or 22 and occasionally the City of Saginaw 31 would be tied up at No. 1 Slip and the newer ones (at that time) such as City of Midland 41, Spartan 42 and Badger 43 would be in and out of slips 2 and 3 because they could load autos onto the top. We all became used to the comings and goings of the boats, it was just an accepted part of life in Ludington.
History happens continually, and we all know that. Life evolves, and so did the carferries. Now we are at a point where we have but three left of the seven that sat there in the 1960s. The City of Midland 41 remains here as the barge Pere Marquette 41 attached to the tug Undaunted and I am happy each time I get to see her as history goes on, she is still serving. The Spartan (42) still exists mostly as a parts source for the Badger, but she has a purpose and again that is history floating right there. She serves on. That brings us to the Badger, steamer #43. By the way, back in the day the crews did not call their boats by their names they served on the 22 or the 41 or well, you get the idea.
The Badger is a floating time piece, a time capsule maintained by a crew that cares for her and operates her. A floating piece of history that truly comes alive as she exits the dock with a blast of her horn. Those of us that step on her should remind ourselves of that each time. She is not old, she is in her prime, and with tender love and care I think her best days are yet ahead. Others can go faster, perhaps, but they just are not the Badger. She is unique. I have walked her decks since I was a kid of perhaps 12. I can remember riding the boat in the daytime on trips, evening trips, wintertime trips and perhaps the most when it still carried freight cars as that was enjoyable just being there looking down watching them unload and load.
Now it is just vehicles, trucks and passengers but it is a clockwork-like team work system that flows almost seamlessly getting all that on and off. The crew was what I and my editor, Rob Alway, were to meet that day, and spend the day imbedded within. We would watch, chat and get to know them and better learn how and why they do what they do.
My day started out meeting the purser, Mary Lou Ohnsman. She likes doing her job right out between the cars as they approach and meeting people right as they board. She greets everyone with a smile, me included!
Mary Lou is a retired teacher and taught in places like Colorado, Minnesota and Michigan. She has been with Lake Michigan Carferry for five years now. After security, along with the ship’s K-9, Mary Lou checks each vehicle as they come to her and her crew. She may have to measure an RV to make sure on size. It is stated on the ticket but she double checks (everything has only so much space on the boat to fit). Everyone is greeted with welcome aboard or welcome back if they have sailed before on the Badger. Mary Lou has a way of putting you at ease the moment you walk up with her welcoming smile.
“I would rather be out here meeting the people than at a computer doing my job,” she said. You do it well! Thank you, Mary Lou for starting my day with a smile.
From there I met up with MCP Editor-in-Chief Rob Alway and joined Junior Engineer Scott Rogers on the car deck. We would meet up with Scott a few times on the trip over to Manitowoc. We watched the loading of passengers and vehicles and then went through the engine spaces meeting people in the boiler room and other spots.
Scott started with Lake Michigan Carferry in 2006 as a dishwasher and then moved to prep cook. In 2007 he moved to the engine department working as a coal passer, fireman, water tender, and oiler to his present spot of junior engineer. As a junior engineer, he has received advanced training and is a licensed crew member; the technical licensure is known as qualified member of the engine department (QMED).
Scott took us all through areas such as the aft steering room where you can steer the ship from if necessary. After he described how it was all done, I was quite sure I never wanted to have to steer the ship from there. It was obvious it would be manpower intensive. We also went through the “Flicker.” The Flicker is where the engine crew has quarters on the ship.
The name dates back to the late 19th century in the early days of train ferries. When trains were loaded on the car deck above, they would cause the 24-watt lights in the quarters to flicker, thus the name.
It was so peaceful down there while underway even though the Flicker is located just aft of the engine room.
Along the trip we had lunch in the galley and chatted a little with Chase Baker the line cook. More of that in another article. I did thank him for the nice lunch (and cupcakes).
At Manitowoc I watched the engine crew answer the engine order telegraphs (EOTs) from the bridge and after pilot house as they shifted steering and moved the Badger to her dock. The EOTs are often referred to as Chadburns because they were manufactured by Chadburn’s Limited of Liverpool, England. Bells rang, levers moved by hands well used to exactly what to do, horns blew and a slight bump and we were at the dock!
More conversations with other crew along the way there and home to Ludington, and one pair of passengers that I stumbled across that I spoke with that also had quite an interesting story. It will follow in further articles coming up!
By the way Chase, I only had three cupcakes. Well four if you count the one I carried outside which I intended to give to Rob, honest.
_____________________
Please consider supporting the Great Lakes Boat Blog.
For $5 per month, you can receive the most recent Great Lakes Boat Blog sent directly to your email inbox.
To sign up, email editor@mediagroup31.com. In the subject line write: BOAT BLOG. Please supply your name, email address, mailing address, and phone number (indicate cell phone). We will not share your information with any outside sources. For more than one email address in a household, the cost is $3.50 per month per email address.
Automatic online payments can be set up monthly or annually. Annual payments are $55 per year. You can also mail a yearly check for $55 to Media Group 31, PO Box 21, Scottville, MI 49454 (please include your email address).
Payment must be made in advance prior to subscription activation.
Sponsorships are also available for businesses and individuals.
We appreciate all our readers regardless of whether they choose to continue to access our service for free or with a monthly financial support.
Great Lakes Boat Blog Copyright Notice
This story and original photography are copyrighted © 2025, all rights reserved by Media Group 31, LLC, PO Box 21, Scottville, MI 49454. No portion of this story or images may be reproduced in any way, including print or broadcast, without expressed written consent.